Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Who should I breed my mare to??

Breeding my Appaloosa mare has been a dream of mine since I got her when she was 6 months old, she is now 8 and doesn't have a show career.. but is fantastic to ride, has amazing colouring and hall of fame bloodlines on both side. I was planning on breeding her last season but nothing was working out for me so I decided not to. I had the stallion and breeding contracts in my hand ready to sign too but I decided not to. Which Im glad I waited because I love riding her, she is a 2004 15hand appaloosa mare which I ride her English hunter/jumper. A few sires I have in mind are:

My little Secret:
2009
15.3hand bay with white blanket appaloosa stallion, standing at Char O lot ranch.
Stud fee:$1000
Saudi Arabia prince owns him
3X world champion already, his grandsire "The Secret" is also syndicated



















Acore:
2005 16.1 hand
Bay canadian warmblood stallion
Jumper/Grand Prix























Westporte:
Westporte is an imported Hanoverian, standing 16.3 hands, dark bay, has competed hunters, jumpers and has produced some fancy hunters and champion offspring.
















There are many others to choose from.. I definitely want to breed her to another appaloosa to see what I get, I have a few foals that I want from her also to continue her bloodlines. My search will continue....

-Meaghan S.







Thursday, July 5, 2012

Beating the summer heat

Hot and humid summers can be tough on humans and even tougher on horses, horses rely on us to choose how they deal with the heat.


Horses can live outside 24/7 if provided with 2 very important things: Fresh water at all times, and shade, somewhere they can go to get out of the direct sunlight and heat. As for water it must be clean and drinkable, all horses in the paddock must have access to it, no matter the height of the horse or pony. If horses are stalled at night, it is advised that they have 2 water buckets as they will drink more in the heat. Buckets get slimy after a day or 2 so also dumping buckets out and scrubbing them is a must. Slim build up will result in bacteria ingested by the horse. Provide free choice mineral/salt licks in pastures unless they are in the horses stalls. 



Shade can be in the form of large trees, and or run in shelters big enough for all horses in get out of the heat together, as they normally travel in packs. Providing UV ray scrim sheets/ light summer fly sheets will also protect horses from the bug bites and the elements, Fly masks are also a good idea so horses don't get bug bites around their faces and then their faces swell up most times. 




Horses that have light faces and or light pink noses may need sunscreen as well applied everyday they are outside and or exposed to the sun. Chesnut horses with pink noses are very susceptible to burns on their noses.  In the hot and humid summer months horses maybe be left inside during the day to avoid the UV rays and turned out at night to be more comfortable while being outside.

If possible and the weather is decent open all barn doors and windows to allow airflow through the barn to cut down on the heat being trapped inside. Installing fans on each horses stall front is advisable if possible to give each horse its own cooling system when stalled to avoid over heating. While being stalled horses need access to hay and fresh clean water at all times and electrolytes would be advisable too to encourage the horse to drink in the humid weather. 



Be fair to your horse and avoid working him/her during the high temperatures, ride very early morning or later at night to avoid the humidity. If you must work your horse only ride for about 20-25 minutes at a time with more walk times in between other excersises.  Effective warming up and cooling down are crucial in the summer times, hosing horses off after a workout will help bring down their body temperature and reduce heavy breathing. Don't let your horse stand still to cool down, keep him walking until his breathing returns to normal. 

During the summer keep an eye on your horses drinking habits and make sure he is taking in lots of water to stay hydrated to avoid vet bills.  




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Sunday, May 27, 2012

Find a Boarding barn....

Check you the barn yourself:

A visit lets you see the facility and level of care for the horses. You should have a list of questions to ask the owners or the manager running the farm. The facility need not be fancy but must be safe for horses to reside at. Things to check:

Fencing
All gates and fences should be in good repair and not broken and functional, Fencing doesn't have to be 4 boards or no climb mesh. Electric tape can be just as good as long as it works, barbed wire is not acceptable.

Stabling
Check stalls for dangers like holes in corners ,broken boards and protruding nails, look for fire hazards and exposed wires and any signs of a fire extinguishers and smoke alarms. There should be clean stalls, clean water buckets. Also take a deep breathe in... you shouldn't smell ammonia.. if you do.. that is a sign of poor ventilation.

Feeding
Ask how often horses are fed and how much, and if they have a custom feed plan for each horse that comes in for boarding. When peaking into the feed room you should see lots of grain and different kinds and supplements stored in a rodent proof containers. There should be a chart with each horses name and what it gets for AM/PM feeding time.  Check the hay.. it should be leafy and green and sweet smelling not dark brown, dusty, course or stemmy.

Turnout
Paddocks that are grazed down to no grass and muddy suggest over crowding of horses in them.  Paddocks should have a good source of water, space between paddocks will prevent aggression along fence lines.

Amenities
Make sure the farms arenas meet your needs and that footing is maintained and appropriate for your discipline.  Keep in mind that no barn is perfect , pick the amenities you want and ones that are just an added bonus.

Horses
Look at the condition of the horses.. they should be fat and look healthy, not sore. They should be relaxed and happy.

20 Questions to ask:

1) How long have you been in operation?
2) What id your turnover rate?
3) How often do you feed?
4) What do you feed?
5) How often and where are horses turned out?
6) Do you require the use of a specific vet and farrier?
7) When are horses de wormed?
8) Do you require boarded horses to have negative coggins?
9) Does someone live on the property? how often are horses checked on?
10) Are there days where i cant visit or ride my horse?
11) Do you require the use of a specific trainer?
12) Can someone blanket my horse if im not there?
13) What services are not included in the board price?
14) Where can i store my tack?
15) Do you have a boarding contract?
16) Can I see a copy of the barn rules and regulations?
17) Do you provide trailering?
18) Do you have liability insurance?
19) Can you provide names and numbers for references?
20) If there a waiting list?


Good luck and have fun choosing a place for your horse to live at.
:)

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

An Equestrian Future

Hello fello Equestrians

I have been thinking for a while about doing a blog post about myself and my personal equestrian experience so far (up to 2012)  so lets get started...

DeeDee winter 2011 


Back in December 2006 my Dad bought DeeDee as a weanling as a christmas present for myself and my sister, my dad and i trained her, and i was doing riding lessons at a different barn, she was always strung out on sweet feed, she was a good horse though, fairly easy to train. At 1 year and 7 months we moved her to the barn I was taking lessons at. At that time it was the top training barn in the area. I broke her myself with little help from the coaches at the barn, and she was really easy to break, I was the first one to get one her and there were days where we had our good times and our bad. I kept her there for 5.5 years and I had alot of good times and bad , which was all part of training and I over came alot of confidence issues with my self as a rider.

September 26 2011 DeeDee 


The summer of 5.5 years came and I had made the decision to leave the barn and go to a smaller private barn, it got to be too busy and a big lesson barn. On August 1st I loaded up my horse and went to a smaller barn just about 5 minutes away from the barn I was at. I was really busy with school and being in my last year of college I just needed to focus on school and not so much riding. So I just wanted my mare to have a year of light work and I didn't have to worry about lessons and such. It was a good year for my horse to just learn to be a horse instead of being at a big show barn (hunter/jumper). Exactly a year later while at the small barn, it went up for sale, so I made another decision to find another barn to go to.. and now that i was done school.. i wanted to get back into some serious riding and working with horses. so i moved to a barn that wasn't so far out into the country. The person leasing the barn wasn't the greatest, but new people took over as of (may 1st 2012) and it all worked out, I now have a chance to ride and show in many difference areas and expand my riding skills and meeting tons of good equestrian and horse people and also travel and look at stallions in the states for breeding opportunities. Im definitely looking forward to the up coming opportunities. :)

DeeDee with her eye's closed, my sister is holding her

Supportive parents

Helloo Fello Equestrians

Every kid has a dream they want.. whether it be small or big, or within school or in sports. It is hard when as a kid/young teen you have a sports goal in mind and you want to achieve it and your parents aren't exactly supportive about it. That has been my biggest challenge so far... Horseback riding is one of the most expensive and dangerous sports out there... its not like baseball or football or soccer where there is a small ball involved.. we work with 1000lb animals with a mind of there own. My parents agreed to enroll my sister and I in riding lessons about 9ish years ago.. it was all uphill from there, I was hooked from the moment I got on that school horse. My parents were ok with us riding in lessons because there was always supervision the problems came when my dad bought my sister and I a 6 month old appaloosa filly named DeeDee.  Horseback riding is a very expensive sport on a monthly basis it can cost anywhere from $350-$3000+ a month.

one of the first rides on my own horse, i was terrified!
All costs and dangers aside kids in todays day and age should be enrolled in either a school sport or a sport outside of school it keeps kids active and social. Having supportive parents in anything you do is helpful in away that keeps kids motivated to continue trying their best and achieving and setting more goals for them selves. My dad in particular was the one who bought the horse and has been there for me every step of the way. In the beginning he financially supportive my dream and now that im old enough to work I pay for everything. My dad and I would go out to the barn a few days a week and see my horse, because she was only 6 months old at the time there was a lot of training to be done with my horse. Of course we had our ups and our downs, but we spent countless hours working with my mare when she was young to get her the perfect horse for myself and my sister to ride now. I had only been riding for about 2+ years before my dad bought the horse... and knowing nothing about how to train a young horse or much about on the ground work, it all turned out ok. I remember to this day going out to the barn in the winter in -20 degree weather afraid of my horse because she was young and unpredictable but i knew i had to work with her because she needed a lot of ground work, respect and just general training to become the horse she is today. Back when my dad considered buying my horse, my mom immediately said no.. because of the costs and it was considered a "dangerous animal" she didnt want us around the horse at all except in lessons when we would have lots of supervision. In the end my dad made the right decision to buy us an exceptionally well bred appaloosa filly.

My dad and DeeDee in the early days 


Today: May 7th 2012

She is currently 7 years old and broke to ride English, has fantastic bloodlines and I'm planning on continuing her bloodlines by breeding her in a year or so. From all the training back when she was a yearling and up she was fairly easy to train, she had her moments but we got over those and she has been a dream to ride ever since.

these were the days when i was afraid of her..

There were days were i would get no where with her and just would think it was a waste of time and money, many days i cried and wanted to give up riding, training her.. everything to do with horses. Im glad i stuck it out. I now have the chance to grow as a rider,trainer and horse women in general all with the help of the new people at my barn. :)

DeeDee was almost 3 here

Today at 7 years old.



I thank both my parents for being supportive and sticking with my through thick and thin.. good times and the bad, we've pulled through some really rough times with the horse but made it.  I gladly thank them for that. :) 





Monday, May 7, 2012

Advertising on my blog



Sponsored Posts

From time to time I will publish a sponsored post on Only Equine. The money from these helps justify the amount of time I spend blogging and keeps my Horse happy, healthy and living the life of a horse. 

If you are a company or organization that would like me to write/publish a sponsored post for you, please email me for my reasonable rates Onlyequines@gmail.com 

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 Horse Size package -This is open to ONLY ONE person per month. A text link at the bottom of every blog post I write that month.-A 200x200 linked advert in the side bar.-A #FF for every Friday of your advertising month, on twitter.-4 linked shoutouts on my Facebook Page-A linked feature in my monthly advertisers post. Price-$ 75 (cdn)

Large pony package-This is open to ONLY ONE person per month. The top 200x200 linked advert in the side bar. A #FF for every Friday in your advertising month, on twitter. A linked shoutout on my Facebook Page.-A linked feature in my monthly Amazing Advertisers post. Price-$55 (cdn)

Medium pony package-200x150 linked advert in the side bar-A #FF for every Friday of your advertising month, on twitter. A linked shoutout on my Facebook Page. A linked feature in my Amazing Advertisers post.
-$35 (cdn)

Small pony package -200x100 linked advert in the side bar. All advertising packages run from the first to the last day of every month. All advertising packages are to be paid via paypal. If you would like to book one of these, please email Onlyequines@gmail.com . (Please put, "Advertising Package" in the subject bar) Spaces book up fast.-$18 (cdn)

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Thursday, April 26, 2012

Entry Level Reining.. Have you tried it?


NRHA’s program for beginning reiners provides a fun, educational, and family-oriented ladder of competition.



The program: The National Reining Horse Association’s new “starter levels” of competition, which debuted in 2010, welcome riders of all backgrounds and abilities to the sport of reining. The Green Reiner class in particular takes the pressure off if you’re at the very beginning/introductory level of the sport, and wouldn’t feel comfortable in NRHA’s more competitive Rookie Reiner division. Green Reiners compete at one of two levels depending on prior points and monies earned, so that the more advanced Green Reiners aren’t mixed in with the newest of the newbies. Moreover, once a rider earns 100 Green Reiner points, he or she is no longer eligible to compete in that class, making it truly an entry-level competitive opportunity. NRHA’s complementary “Ride” and “Slide” classes offer small steps up to slightly tougher competition, creating an inviting ladder by which you can improve your performance in the sport.
Players: All types of riders. You need only an NRHA associate membership ($20) to compete in any of the entry-level classes, and you needn’t even own the horse you show. For both the Green Reiner and Ride classes, neither non-pro declarations nor competition licenses are required.
Other Advantages: Patterns are tweaked to make first experiences less intimidating. In Green Reiner classes, for example, you can ride with one or two hands, plus choose between simple (through-the-trot) or flying lead changes. Ride classes may also have reduced pattern requirements. You don’t need fancy gear or attire, either—just a long-sleeved shirt, a hat or helmet, boots, and a Western saddle and bridle.
Good to Try If: You’ve always admired reining but thought it was “above your pay grade.” In these classes, the atmosphere is supportive and encouraging, and you’ll always be competing against riders with about the same level of experience as you.
Success Tip: Work with a trainer or a knowledgeable friend to learn the basics, watch how the pros and experienced non-pros do it to absorb their knowledge and techniques, and ride a veteran reining horse if at all possible. “A seasoned horse allows you to learn how to rein versus trying to school a green horse while you’re learning yourself,” recommends Butch Human of Advance, North Carolina. Butch earned his Green Reiner buckle in less than six months aboard his “old war horse,” Mr Jerry Jac. “My wife and I started riding green horses and we struggled. With this gelding, I could go into the pen and think about what I needed to do, instead of worrying about my horse.”
The Buzz: These entry-level classes provide more than camaraderie and the satisfaction of learning and improving. They also offer the chance to win great prizes. By accumulating Green Reiner points at NRHA competitions, riders can earn trophy jackets (50 Green Reiner points) and Montana Silversmiths trophy belt buckles (100 points).
And for the Wee Ones: Youth riders can participate in the entry-level classes they qualify for, and for the smallest fry, there’s the short stirrup class. It uses NRHA Pattern No. 11, created especially for this class. The pattern calls for slower speeds and eliminates flying lead changes. As in the new entry-level classes for adults, the youngsters needn’t own the mounts they ride, making it easier for those great old reining horses to teach the sport to the next generation.

Via: Equisearch  
http://www.equisearch.com/horses_riding_training/have-you-tried-entry-level-reining/

Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Ipad Sleeves

Custom Ipad Sleeves for sale


Plaid Ipad Sleeve for sale, Lined with fleece


Ipad cases for sale, email for custom options and price quotes, available fabrics: Leather, Tweed, fleece,Plaid and other available fabrics, pockets, straps, enclosures and buttons and Velcro are also available closure option most are Fleece or Sheepskin lined, very soft and will protect the Ipad, the Sleeves are completely customizable to what you want: such as pockets, straps, closures, buttons… etc 

Black Leather Ipad sleeve, with front pocket and strap closure with button, lined with soft fleece

Located in St.Catharines,Ontario,Canada

Email me: Onlyequines@gmail.com
BBM pin: 26B5BEE1 

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Sunday, February 26, 2012

Common causes of weight loss in Off track thoroughbreds


Learn about some common causes of weight loss in off-the-track Thoroughbreds (OTTBs) in this excerpt from the book Beyond the Track.

Insufficient calories: If a horse is not receiving enough calories via a combination of roughage and grain, he will lose weight, especially as his "race-fit" muscling disappears. Over the years at New Vocations, I have found that insufficient feed is the number one cause of weight loss in adopted horses.
Parasite infestation: Horses should be dewormed every 60 to 90 days, and at the track, Thoroughbreds are on a schedule to ensure this. While you should request information regarding the horse's last deworming when you buy or adopt him, it may not be available. As a precaution, it is always good to deworm a new horse to help avoid problems with condition as you begin retraining.
Heat: In a hot climate, or during the very warm seasons, a horse that spends long periods in direct sun will burn more calories than a horse that is in a stall, run-in shelter, or in the shade. If your horse is turned out all the time, it is important to provide him a means of shelter and shade. Inside a barn, fans can be positioned to help cool hot horses.
Cold: In regions that experience extreme cold temperatures, or during bouts of cold weather, a horse that is turned out with no shelter to protect him from wind, snow, and rain, will burn extra calories as he tries to stay warm, especially if he's wet. As in areas that experience severe heat, it is necessary to provide adequate cover from the weather. In addition, horses with thinner winter coats or those in the coldest climates may benefit from a blanket or rug.

Fighting insects: Thoroughbreds hateinsects. They tend to be thin-skinned and especially sensitive to biting flies and mosquitoes, so expect the weight to "melt" off your horse if he spends too much time fighting the bugs--inside as well as out. There are a variety of products available, including sprays, wipes, masks, and sheets, that can help keep your horse comfortable. And, scheduling turnout for the least buggy time of day is recommended.
Pacing the fence: Running back and forth along the fence line obviously contributes to weight loss. This can be due to initial anxiety about being turned out, boredom, horses in neighboring paddocks, or a lack of company in one's own. I explain how to avoid or deal with this problem further in Beyond the Track.
Sickness: One indication of illness or disease is weight loss. Illness also weakens the horse's defenses against sudden changes in weather and parasite infestation, which contributes to the problem. If a horse is in poor condition and seems depressed, off his feed, or otherwise unwell, have your veterinarian examine him to rule out an underlying problem.
Teeth: Horses may have difficulty chewing and consequently digesting their food if teeth are sharp or in poor alignment. Watch the horse eat and note if he drops a lot of food out of his mouth while he chews. Other indicators of mouth discomfort can include issues with the bit, head-tossing, or poor behavior. A veterinarian or equine dentist can check your horse's teeth and "float" them--file down sharp and rough edges that may be causing problems.

By Anna Morgan Ford



Hawaii Banner

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Tips for Ex-Racehorse Shopping Online


Buying or adopting an ex-racehorse off the Internet can look almost as easy (and just as tempting) as shopping online for a new pair of breeches. But, although candidates are offered at tempting prices--typically $1000 to $5000--the process is neither as easy nor as inexpensive as it first appears.
Are You Ready for a Racehorse?
"Horses coming straight off the track are not for first-time owners or beginning riders," says Jo Anne Normile, founder of CANTER, a nonprofit organization that posts Net listings for Thoroughbreds in 11 states. "These young horses have seen and heard everything but they don't know 'whoa' and they don't know how to make a figure-eight with a rider on their backs."
Most of the horses available through such sites have only had race training. That means they...
  • usually don't stand still for mounting. Jockeys and exercise riders are boosted into the saddle at a walk.
  • are taught to be competitive. To them, riding in a group means galloping at 38 mph and trying to get in front of everyone else. Until a racehorse has been fully retrained (a process that usually takes at least six months), he's likely to be excitable in group situations.
  • are taught to lean on the bit when they run--and understand pulling on the reins to mean "go faster."
  • aren't taught to stop or turn quickly. At the track, fast stops at high speed make for injuries.
  • have raced to the left--and so are probably unbalanced to the right, particularly in small circles.
  • are largely unfamiliar with leg aids. (Jockeys' knees are up by the withers.)

A racehorse just off the track will probably need three months or more to back off from extreme fitness and readjust his system from the high-energy grain regimen (plus any drugs he may have been on). Normal non-racing barn routine and daily turnout will be new experiences that need to be introduced gradually.
Additional challenges will be the mechanics of looking at and trying out horses in the track environment and, if you decide to buy a horse there, dealing with soundness issues typical of ex-racehorses.
Where to Look
Still interested? There are a number of Web sites specializing in ex-racehorse sales and adoptions, and they are not all the same. For example, you'll find:
  • For-profit sites, such as Mix 'n Match, that arrange meetings between buyers and sellers and take a commission on sales. They may offer prospects still on the track and others that have come off the track and have already started retaining. (Usually the off-the-track horses can be ridden.)
  • Nonprofit sites such as CANTER, which give trainers a forum to advertise their stock. Most horses listed are still at the track, but trainers may advertise horses "on the farm"; the site itself has for resale "on-the-farm" horses that were donated to it for fundraising.
  • Nonprofit sites that accept donated (in many cases injured) horses from owners and trainers for "adoption" to new homes. Adoption sites usually charge a fee-typically between $500 and $2500-per horse; many require adopters to sign a contract restricting future use and sale of the horse. Examples include ReRunUnited Pegasus Foundation and the American Standardbred Adoption Program.

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

A safe and successful eventing season starts in the barn


Equisearch
By Jim Wofford



You don’t need to be riding to improve your chances of success in the coming season, Jim explains.

January is the time of year when you can take care of things you don’t have time to take care of the rest of the year. Your horse is just coming back into work, or maybe you’re riding less because of bad weather, so your ability to practice shoulder-in or jumping related distances is limited. However, there are several things you can do now that will make the coming season enjoyable and, more importantly, safer for both you and your horse. The details I have in mind are not directly involved with your ability to sit the trot, but you will sit the trot with a great deal more peace of mind if you have taken care of some, or all, of the following suggestions.
Inspect Your Trailer
Your horse is your best friend, especially when he is thundering down to something that is bigger than anything you have ever seen before and it is cemented in the ground. Don’t you think that he deserves a safe and comfortable conveyance when you are hauling him around to lessons and competitions?
Somewhere in that pile of old mail on your desk is the owner’s manual that came with your gooseneck. Find it and open it to the page marked “Maintenance.” Read it. Do it.
Before you take your trailer in for service, look closely at the interior.
Have any sharp metal edges suddenly ­appeared? Are any of the partitions bent or out of alignment? Is there anything else in your horse’s traveling space that might pose a hazard to him? If so, now is the time to take care of it.
If you have had your trailer for several years and you have been at least normally active, it might be time to replace your tires. If you do not use your trailer on a regular basis, yet have been plagued by
a series of flat tires, you may need to ­replace your tires due to dry rot rather than loss of tread. Each of your trailer tires rotates with the help of mysterious creatures called “bearings.” All you need to know about bearings is that they require care on a regular basis from someone who knows far more about machinery than you and I.
What about your brakes? They need regular service, and your maintenance guidelines will tell you what is needed and how to go about it.
While your trailer is in the shop for its annual rehab, make sure that all of its brake lights, backup lights and running lights are operational. You will need this to pass your state inspection, but you want to take care of these details based solely on your desire to have the safest possible environment for your four-legged friend.
If your trailer is of a certain age, lift the floor mats and make sure that the flooring itself is safe. Some older trailers have wood floors, which have a distressing tendency to rot over time, starting at the back end. However, metal floors can also corrode and deteriorate, and they need to be checked.
While your trailer is in for service, make sure that the hitch apparatus is greased, adjusted and maintained. In addition, if you have been towing your trailer with the same ball hitch on your truck for a long time, have your mechanic check that the ball has not shrunk. It’s a long shot, but the ball can become so worn that the trailer hitch pops off—and it’s preventable.
If you take care of everything we have just talked about, it will cost you a little money. But it is a small investment in your peace of mind about your horse’s well-being, and it is a very small down payment on the vet bills you could incur if you don’t take care of maintenance.

Inspect Your Tack
You also need the month of January to conduct a rigorous safety examination of all your riding equipment.
Start with the bit itself. If it is a loose-ring snaffle, is it starting to show signs of wear where the ring goes through the bit? Are there tiny cracks appearing in the metal? Is there a flat worn spot visible in the ring? Any of these can be a sign that your bit is about to break. You will probably train in perfect safety all spring, yet it will come undone on you halfway around the season’s first cross-country course because that’s the way these things work. However, a little attention during the winter months can prevent a dangerous situation from occurring.
Look at the rest of your bridle. Are the cheekpieces worn? Is it time to replace the keepers because they have stretched out so much that they will no longer “keep” the cheekpiece straps? (That’s a pet peeve of mine because a horse whose bridle lacks effective keepers looks like a hedgehog coming at you.)
Then move your inspection to your reins: If the leather part that wraps around the bit is beginning to show a groove, it is time to replace them. Undo the reins from the bit and inspect the ­internal stitching next to the hook stud or buckle that fastens the rein around the bit. The stitching should still be complete, and the hook stud or buckle itself should still be solidly fixed on the inside of the rein. If you have difficulty getting your reins off the bit, that means your tack maintenance program is badly in arrears and now is the time to fix it. Neatsfoot oil is cheaper than a visit to your local tack-repair shop. In my tack room,
I have several of my father’s bridles. Some of the leather is 75 years old, yet it is supple and the leather glows ­because it has received regular attention.
Working back along the reins, if you use rubber reins, be sure that the rubber hand grips have not started to separate or fray. A skillful tack-repair service can replace them, which is cheaper than a new pair of reins. This should only be done once because of the extra stitching involved, which will weaken the reins with repetition.
Inspect all of the leather parts of your reins for cracks and gouges. In case of doubt, get your tack-repair person to give you an opinion. If you’re still in doubt, then it is time to invest in a new piece of equipment, because you would rather be safe than sorry.
If you are not riding much during the winter, have your saddle’s panels restuffed. While you are at it, repair and replace the billet straps as needed and certainly, if your saddle is an older model, make sure that the material to which your billet straps are stitched is sound and in good repair.
Although a stitch in time saves nine, nine stitches in your stirrup leather buckle might mean the difference between a successful season and a long time spent on crutches wishing you could ride. The stitching at the buckle end of the stirrup leather is the tack area that I most commonly find in disrepair at lessons.
Check Your Horse 
While your horse is not in serious exercise, schedule his annual physical checkup, which should be a complete workup. Unless your regular veterinarian is unusually gifted, this annual checkup should involve a trip to the nearest veterinary school or equine diagnostic clinic.
What should a complete workup ­include? More than the obvious. It is a given that an examination will include the horse’s eyes, lung function and heart as well as external blemishes and superficial injuries or old injury sites. However, you should request flexions on all four limbs, and X-rays should be taken following any positive reaction to a flexion test. Chances are that the reaction is something minor, but you will feel better starting your next training period if you know that you have a minor condition that will be improved, rather than worsened, by exercise.
While you are at it, the clinic team should provide you with a written critique of your horse’s feet and his shoeing with suggestions for improvement. (On your return, be sure you go over this carefully with your farrier. If he is ­resistant to expert advice offered in a constructive fashion, then you need a new farrier.)
Your horse’s annual examination should also include a wide spectrum of blood work. This will tell you a great deal about the state of his health, including any mild form of anemia, the effectiveness of your deworming program and the presence of any lingering low-grade systemic infections. These days, you also need tests for any diseases such as EPM or Lyme that are prevalent in your area. As part of these blood tests, remember to obtain a new Coggins test. Ask the clinic staff to keep you apprised of any new transport requirements—for instance, whether your state now requires a six-month current Coggins, rather than one year. And so on.
If you are competing in FEI events, be sure to bring your horse’s passport to the clinic and make sure it is up to date in every aspect—especially regarding the required flu shots. Also remember that old wounds can heal with white hair rather than hair of his overall coat color. The passport must be changed to reflect this in order to ­remain current.
While your horse is at the clinic, be sure to bring a label from his feed bag and get advice about his nutrition.
Update Your Info
What are some other things you can do during the winter that will make your warm-weather experience more enjoyable? Go online and make sure that US Equestrian Federation and all the other affiliate organizations to which you ­belong have correct information in their user-profile database for both you and your horse. One reason to be sure now that the ­information in the database is correct is that more and more competitions are accepting online entries. If your information is out of date or ­incorrect, you run the risk of the competition’s computer rejecting your entry. Check to make sure everything is correct now to avoid being placed on the waiting list rather than having your ­entry accepted.
Make several copies of all of your membership numbers and of your horse’s registration numbers and competitive records and stash them in various places: your brief case, your vehicle’s glove box, your tack trunk … so you can access them should a competition not be able to find the required information.
If you have not yet joined the various organizations for the coming year, make sure to do it now.
Continue Your Education
Finally, in case you haven’t looked outside yet, it’s still winter. It gets dark early and there’s not much going on. So—read a book. As a matter of fact, I want you to read three books over the next three months. Read one on dressage, one about stadium jumping and one of your choice. Obviously I think my own books have something to offer to you, and you can read my extended reading list here. ­However, a good place for you to start would be with Wilhelm Müseler’s Riding Logic for your dressage book. (Herr Müseler includes some advice about show-jumping in the back of Riding ­Logic—­ignore it.) If you have not read Bertalan de Némethy’s classic Show Jumping: The de Némethy Method, then do so.
For your third book, I prefer you choose one that discusses technique and training rather than one that is ­autobiographical in nature. There are many autobiographical books out there based on the writers’ horse exploits, and they are fascinating and fun to read, but they usually do not increase your knowledge of how to ride and train the way books specifically written for that purpose do.
Anyone with a full-time job will tell you that continuing professional education is a necessity in the modern business world. To continue to improve and succeed in the horse world, you must take the same diligent, disciplined attitude toward continuing education about riding and training as you do toward your professional career.
If you take care of all of these details, I am sure your horse will take better care of you and you will have a safe and enjoyable season.